Kerpen – Retreat in the Shadow of Eyesores
Kerpen does not greet me with beauty. Everywhere the eye turns: the hard edges of 1970s planning, grey and careless. Only two things stand out: the kart…
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Finningen – Beneath the Onion Dome
Finningen is little more than a breath of a village, tiny, close to the Danube, still just within Bavaria before Württemberg begins. A threshold, a…
Kleinmachnow – Silence Between the Bells
Kleinmachnow feels like a place where space was made for life, and life never quite arrived. Wide streets, but hardly any people. The air is tidy…
Freiberg – Time in Stone
In Freiberg, everything breathes history. Where elsewhere the dates on houses begin in the 1700s or 1800s, here they reach back into the 1200s—so far…
Between Cider and the Edge – Nights in Sachsenhausen
It’s easy to forget that these crooked timbered houses belong to Frankfurt—a city that crowns itself in steel and glass. Here in Sachsenhausen, along cobblestone alleys and under…
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