
In Splinterlands, winning battles depends on how much you actually know about the game. This has to do with the “Rules/Modifiers,” abilities, and battle conditions, as well as knowing your cards—that is, the ones in your own deck. Therefore, you need to keep in mind a set of specific skills that will allow you to win many battles and, of course, lose them as well, However, there are general strategies for playing and/or mastering the game, which are based on building versatile lineups that can work for almost any type of rule or modifier. This can help any type of player, though it’s especially geared toward newcomers, since veteran players already know exactly how to play.
But what I mean is that, although there are hundreds and thousands of ways to combine your cards, there are ways to create general combinations that can help new players learn to master the game—and, in fact, any battle they might face—and this is precisely what I want to show in this post. Since players know there are hundreds of cards, they think the game is very complicated to play, but the reality is that if you learn the right approach, it’s actually quite simple to learn and master.
But, setting the introduction aside, if you want to know what these strategies and/or combinations are, stick around until the end of this post—I’m sure it will help you build general lineups.


The Attrition Fortress strategy is one of those classic defensive combinations you can use in the game. Its goal is to place an “Tank”—which is extremely difficult to destroy—in the front position and back it up with “Support” cards that help restore health and armor. While your opponent exhausts their attacks against the front wall you’ve built with the tank and the support units, your rear guard takes the opportunity to slowly chip away at the enemy team’s health round after round.
This lineup is ideal for medium- to high-mana battles (28 to 99 mana) and in battles where the enemy lacks abilities that can penetrate directly or block the healing you’ve established. With that in mind, the distribution of cards in each position is as follows:

Position 1 - The Main Tank: Basically, this unit absorbs 100% of the enemy's damage during the first few rounds or throughout the entire battle. It must have a high number of health points—I'd say more than 7 or 8—as well as, of course, shield points, at least 3 or more. This card should have abilities such as (Shield, Void, Void Armor, and/or Taunt).
Position 2 - The Secondary Tank or Long-Range Guardian: The idea behind this card is to take over the first tank’s position if it’s destroyed, so it should be practically identical or very similar to the first one. Among the abilities it should have are “Reach,” “Flank,” and/or “Lookout,” so choosing this type of card is straightforward.
Positions 3 and 4—Sustainability and Maintenance Units: These positions are needed to place our “Support” cards; the idea is for them to have abilities such as “Tank Heal,” “Repair,” “Triage,” and “Cleanse” to ensure the survival of the target tank on duty.
Positions 5 and 6 - The Loyal Attackers and Rear Guard: This is where our deck’s attack and offense will be focused, so ideally, you should play cards with ranged or magical attacks to attack from these positions without issues. Place cards with abilities like “Close Range” so those cards can act first; otherwise, abilities like “Slow” could also work, though “Sneak,” “Opportunity,” and “Snipe” would be ideal as well.


Many players make the mistake of focusing all their defense on the first monster; using the “Tank” in that way is easy—in fact, in the previous strategy we approached it that way, but with protection and support. The downside to this, however, is that we’ll sometimes leave our healers (Supports), mages, or archers (Attackers) with low health unprotected at the back of the line. When I say “Offensive Pincer,” I mean completely ignoring the opponent’s powerful front-line tank and launching a coordinated attack against the weak, defenseless cards hidden at the back of the enemy lineup.
This strategy is highly effective in low- to medium-mana battles (12 to 26 mana) and devastates teams that rely on a single Support card to survive. But let’s take a look at the distribution:

Position 1 - The Low-Cost Decoy Shield: The purpose of this type of card is simply to buy time—that’s all. So the idea is to play very low-mana cards that don’t cost much but can last several rounds in the first position. Therefore, they should have a good shield or abilities that mitigate damage, and they should cost between 1 and 4 mana. Some abilities they might have include Shield, Divine Shield, or Dodge.
Positions 2, 3, and 4 – All Assassins: This is where all the attacks from the assassins we’ll be playing are concentrated—I’m referring to all those monsters that attack from the rear. The idea is for them to have high speed so they’re the first to attack, in addition to having abilities like “Sneak,” “Snipe,” and “Opportunity.”
Position 5 – The Damage-Boosting Support: This position is very straightforward; the idea is to play cards that amplify the damage of other cards. For example, play cards with the “Inspire” ability, as well as the “Pinpoint” ability—this will boost damage in the medium and long term.
Position 6 - The Anti-Sneak Closer: Here, the idea is to protect the main attackers; its sole role is defense. This card may have abilities such as “Camouflage,” “Decoy,” and “Thorns,” all of which are designed for this purpose.


I hope this post helps you understand these general formations that any type of player can use. They’re very easy to grasp—they aren’t complicated—and even though there are currently many ways to counter both, the reality is that the simplest approach is the one that really works. So, I hope you find this useful and can put it into practice. I’m not using specific formations as a reference because it’s enough to just understand the key characteristics. So, let me know what you think.





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