Bicycle chain replacement, a simple job.
Hey everyone, last week there was a dip in my posts due to a busy real life and sometimes things happen we lose the right mindset to make nice posts.
With a very early weekend for me, I now have plenty of time to make some posts and after some Splinterlands content, let's not forget to diversify my posts and make cycling content as well!
About 700km ago I had to replace the chain of my mountain bike, it's important to check the wear of the chain especially when it nears it's expected lifetime, which can be anywhere from 3000 to 5000 kilometers so I have read. This was my first chain I wore out and it happened after 'only' 3000 kilometers, how long it lasts depends on how well you maintain it but also the conditions in which you are riding it. A road bike chain will generally last longer than a mountain bike chain that tends to get more dirt in it when riding off-road.
You can easily see if your chain needs to be replaced by inserting a special tool in the chain, when the left side is able to get in between the rollers, there is too much wear and the 0.5% wear mark has been passed - it's the moment it's recommended to replace your chain because a chain is cheap but the cassette is not.
In the future I will get a more expensive chain wear measurement tool but for now this will do.
Most modern chains are now connected with a Quick Link, which can be separated with a special pliers and although the manufacturer tell you it's one time use, many people report they never had problems re-using the same quick link a couple of times because for a good thorough clean it's better to get your chain off of the bike.
Something to keep in mind when later you are putting the new chain on your bike is that the brand text has to be facing you, and the arrow on the Quick Link is pointing towards the driving direction so when you pedal it's moving clockwise.
My bike has a 12 speed chain and I ordered two OEM Shimano chains online, these are original chains but are delivered without the official branded box and therefore they're a little bit cheaper, ā¬15 each.
It wasn't until I took the old chain off until I realized my old chain that I bought with the bike was not original Shimano but KMC so now at least I know I can use both brands and to be honest, I'm not feeling or hearing any difference on my Shimano Deore groupset which is considered the entry level group set but it's perfectly fine for me, at least for now.
Since this was the first time I was replacing a chain, I had to learn as I did it and a new chain gets delivered with more links than you actually need, so before putting it on your bike you have to go through some steps so first, let's start with making sure it has the same length as my old chain. I've read just putting to new chain next to the old chain isn't the right way to do - because of the wear the old chain got a little bit longer, in fact there is just more space in between the rollers so it's not like the steel got longer because of your strong legs. š
So, the tedious task of COUNTING the links, first for my old chain which I already did before ordering the new chains to make sure it was delivered long enough, and recounting to not make a mistake... 114 links!
I counted three times to make sure I would cut the chain on the correct size and not mess it up and ruin the new chain, before cutting the chain on the link where it needed to be done I first practiced a couple of times to see how my chain breaker tool I always carry with me work and I found out it wasn't ideal for home maintenance, it's small size requires a lot of force to be used to push out the pin that connects the links and it also slightly bends the links, for now it had to do and in case of on the road emergency repairs it's perfectly fine but I already bought a better, bigger ToPeak chain breaker tool for the next time.
After practicing to break the chain, it was time to break the right link and I learned it has to be the inner link or you can't connect it to the other side of the chain but once you know this, this is pretty simple as well.
After sizing the chain, it's important to degrease the factory grease because it's very sticky and will collect lots of dirt on your chain, so always degrease it first.
I used turpentine for this job, I let the chain soak in the glass jar for 10 minutes with a shake every two or three minutes and then rinse off the turpentine in another bottle with soapy water and shake it well, after that I rinsed it off under the tap and then with compressed air I got all the water out and left it there for 15 more minutes so any leftover water could evaporate.
The chain wear tool has two hooks on the other side which is great to put on your chain so you can easily connect to chain using the new Quick Link and not have to fight the derailleur tension.
The same pliers you use to open the Quick Link can be used to close it, you have to pull the handles away from each other, at least this goes for the pliers I have. I had to use a lot of force to snap the Quick Link in the closed position for the very first time, so much I was doubting if I was doing it the right way but eventually it snapped on.
Be sure to carefully look and maybe snap some pictures how your chain goes over the derailleur rollers, and not make the mistake to put it over the metal cage just after the top roller, now it's time to carefully re-lube the chain with the lube of your choosing, for now I am using wet lube because in winter, wax will simply be washed away. Because the chain was completely degreased I used a good amount of lube and after 15 minutes of letting it soak in, I ran the chain through my fingers to spread some lube to the outside of the chain to apply a thin film to prevent any rust, after that I ran the chain through a piece of cloth to wipe off any excess lube because it will only collect dust, sand and mud that can stick on to the chain.
When I have worked (or cleaned) with oil or any type of lube, I like to clean my brake rotor with brake cleaner so I know my brake pads won't get accidentally get contaminated and have to be replaced because of a simple mistake.
Replacing your chain is a simple task most cyclists will be able to do their selves, this saves some money you can buy new goodies for! š¤
Thanks for stopping by!
Good job replacing your chain! It's a job that can done easily when you have the right tools. And it saves you some money for a mechanic too.
The two hooks! No way! I have a similar tool, but always used a piece of iron wire to keep the parts together.
And I also never degreased a chain before mounting it.
You're never too old to learn!
I do have a tip that might help you too.
When I break my old chain I hang it on a nail. Then I hang the new chain right next to it. This way you can determine the length a bit faster.
Do pay attention that the old chain is a few milimeters longer.
Like this:
Yeah well because I never did this before, I've read that you shouldn't measure your old to the new chain and my old chain was really dirty so I didn't check afterwards but it's not like it's more than half a link of difference right? The nail hanging trick is a good one to keep in mind, thanks!
Haha, the hooks made me laugh š it's exactly what posts like these are meant for right š
When I started cycling, I bought this chain wear tool from AliExpress, I was at the Mantel store in Utrecht yesterday and bought a proper Parktool one which measures 0.5 on one side and 0.75 on the other, strange thing is,both the Shimano as the BBB checkers measure 0.75 and 1.0 wear, which already is way too much.
I haven't tested if there's any difference between the AliExpress tool and the Parktool one, I will measure them tomorrow when I have some time.
Oh, so many technical things. Now Iām going to have a look to see whether mine is fitted properly. I didnāt install it myself, but Iām curious. And Iāve been riding with my chain a bit too long for a while now. My mechanic told me, when he came to service the bike recently, that heād come back with the right tool to shorten it ā and he still hasnāt shown upā¦
I bet youāll achieve the diversification youāre aiming for. All the bestā¦ Iāve been a bit like you as well. You canāt imagine the effort it takes for me to write here.
Your mechanic visits you? that's cool!
So, you're running a too long chain, As long as your derailleur can reach all gears and the tension is enough to not run the chain off of the gears it's ok I think...
This reminds me to check my chains as well... have not done it in a while.
This is something I have to do myself one day, my son-in-law usually does my cycle maintenance because it's something he enjoys (he refurbishes bike to resell).
Well ordered post with simple laid out steps with great tips, I need to try this.
Thank you!
The more complex things about a bike like the shocks is what's holding me back, but I think it's great to rebuild bikes to sell them